Altitude Sickness in Jujuy: How to Acclimatize and Not Ruin Your Trip

Most tourists arrive in San Salvador de Jujuy (1,259 m / 4,130 ft) by plane from Buenos Aires in just over two hours. That pressure change is manageable, but the problem arises when the next day they drive straight up to Purmamarca (2,324 m), continue to the Salinas Grandes (3,450 m) and end the day in Humahuaca (2,939 m) without any rest stop.

The human body needs 24 to 72 hours to adjust red blood cell production and breathing rate to lower oxygen concentrations. Above 2,500 m the air contains roughly 26% less oxygen than at sea level. At 3,500 m that gap exceeds 30%. The central nervous system feels it first: hence the classic first symptom of a throbbing headache, followed by fatigue, dizziness and nausea.

Altitude sickness does not discriminate by age or fitness level. Athletes sometimes suffer more because their bodies consume more oxygen at rest. The good news is that with proper preparation most travelers avoid it entirely.

Knowing the altitudes in advance lets you plan a gradual, surprise-free ascent:

• San Salvador de Jujuy: 1,259 m (4,130 ft) — ideal base for the first night
• Purmamarca: 2,324 m (7,625 ft) — first real altitude threshold
• Tilcara: 2,465 m (8,087 ft) — where sickness becomes frequent without acclimatization
• Humahuaca: 2,939 m (9,642 ft) — essential to have slept lower first
• Salinas Grandes: 3,450 m (11,319 ft) — the most demanding excursion on the route
• La Quiaca (Bolivian border): 3,442 m (11,293 ft)

The Quebrada de Humahuaca as a whole ranges between 2,000 and 3,900 m depending on the sector.

The golden rule from altitude medicine specialists: do not sleep more than 500 m higher than where you slept the previous night, once above 2,500 m. In Jujuy this translates to: night 1 in San Salvador or Tilcara, night 2 in Tilcara or Humahuaca, and only on day three make the excursion to the Salinas or the high Puna. It sounds conservative, but it is the difference between enjoying your trip and spending it in bed.

Mild altitude sickness includes a throbbing headache (usually frontal or temporal), fatigue disproportionate to the effort, loss of appetite, difficulty sleeping and irritability. These symptoms appear between 1 and 12 hours after ascending and typically resolve on their own in 24-48 hours if you do not ascend further.

Moderate altitude sickness adds severe dizziness, nausea, vomiting and shortness of breath at rest. At this point the medical recommendation is to stop ascending and evaluate an immediate descent of at least 500 meters.

Severe altitude sickness — high-altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema — is a medical emergency. Warning signs include: disorientation, inability to walk in a straight line, pink frothy cough, or shortness of breath that prevents you from staying still. In that case descent must be immediate (at least 1,000 m) and urgent medical attention is required.

In the Quebrada de Humahuaca there are primary health centers in Tilcara and Humahuaca. The reference hospital with full emergency service is in San Salvador de Jujuy. If you notice signs of severe altitude sickness, do not wait: go down.

Day 0 — Arrival in San Salvador de Jujuy (1,259 m). Spend the first night in the capital. Avoid alcohol and intense physical activity. Stay well hydrated: the low humidity of the Puna increases water loss through breathing. Rest.

Day 1 — Gentle ascent. Travel to Purmamarca (2,324 m) or Tilcara (2,465 m) and sleep there. Walk slowly, eat light, drink coca tea. Most travelers sleep well that first night in the Quebrada.

Day 2 — Consolidation. If you have no symptoms, you can visit Humahuaca (2,939 m) as a day trip, returning to sleep in Tilcara. Continue avoiding alcohol. The body works during sleep to adapt: do not interrupt the process.

Day 3 onwards — If you have slept two nights above 2,400 m without symptoms, you have enough margin for the Salinas Grandes excursion (3,450 m). Ascend the Lipán pass slowly, stop if you feel unwell, and do not stay more than 3-4 hours at the salt flat before returning to lower altitude.

Coca leaf: locals have used it for centuries. Chewing leaves or drinking the infusion relieves mild sickness by improving peripheral oxygenation. Not a miracle cure, but a real and culturally meaningful support.

Acetazolamide (Diamox): the only medication with solid scientific evidence for altitude sickness prevention. The preventive regimen recommended by the US CDC is 125 mg every 12 hours, starting the day before the ascent and continuing for the first two days at altitude; it is a prescription drug, so your doctor should set the dose before you travel. Most common side effects are increased urination and tingling in hands and feet, both benign.

Ibuprofen (400-600 mg) or paracetamol (1 g): useful for mild headache, available over the counter. They do not treat the cause but make the adaptation more bearable.

Dexamethasone: a corticosteroid used in rescue situations for moderate to severe sickness. Only under explicit medical prescription. Not for prevention.

Oxygen canisters: some hotels and guesthouses in the Quebrada keep medical oxygen for their guests; if this concerns you, ask whether the property has it when you book. It is a short-term palliative, not a structural solution.

What does NOT work: acclimatizing with alcohol (worsens dehydration and disrupts deep sleep), overeating, or ignoring symptoms while continuing to ascend.

Always carry in your daypack: antiemetics (metoclopramide or domperidone) for nausea, ibuprofen for headache, and a thermometer if you have a history of fever at altitude.

Buy travel insurance with high-altitude evacuation coverage before you leave: it is inexpensive and can be decisive in an emergency. Research the altitude of every stop on your itinerary before booking accommodation.

If you are traveling with children under 2, people with heart disease, uncontrolled hypertension or pregnant travelers, consult a specialist in altitude medicine — some conditions contraindicate travel above 3,000 m.

Do not self-medicate with Diamox without a medical prescription. Drink at least 2.5 liters of water or herbal teas per day. Coca tea is your ally; wine and beer are your enemies for the first few days.

Slow down: the Quebrada de Humahuaca and the Puna are destinations for contemplation, not rushing. And if your body says stop, the best backup plan is to descend 500 meters, rest for a night and try again the next day. The landscape will still be there waiting for you.